Sweetings

I like a restaurant that only serves lunch. Sweetings has been serving a surprisingly varied crowd—it’s close to the city so there are finance types, it’s also a favorite of Fergus Henderson, it even appears in the diaries of Chips Channon). It keeps your options narrow: fish, oysters, smoked eel. A concise wine list. Black velvet in a silver tankard, if you’re inclined. The service is as varied as the clientele, with charmers and curmudgeons alike. No reservations. Show up early.