The tomato salad by a trailblazing young female chef in Oaxaca, Mexico

To be fair, all the food at Levadura de Olla is very good. But this salad is radically farm-to-table in a way that’s made it something of a trademark for chef Thalía Barrios García, who sources the different varietals of tomatoes — indigenous to the Americas, not Italy! — from the village in which she was raised. Of greatest importance, and despite its sublime simplicity, it’s incredibly delicious.