Shinjuku Golden Gai mini-bar district

Spent an entire night (into daylight) here with 4 friends a few years ago between 4-5 bars, the last of which we spent more than 4 hours in singing and drinking and smoking with the owner/bartender/cook, a sweet 70 year old woman. Not for the casual tourist - this is locals fare but welcoming for the intrepid traveler. Must learn and comply with local social norms and wait your turn, leave if the bar seems unwelcome to non-locals, keep an open mind and heart. If you do, you just might experience the most memorable night in Tokyo there is.