$20
7 months ago
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Across Rec League


Emma
“Is it cheating to recommend something that has won a Pulitzer, like, duh? But seriously I reread this one every year — banger of a memoir! The pull quote from the NYT describes it as the finest surf book (true), but I would say it is also a beautiful exploration of what it means to be good at something. Plus all the amazing surfing vernacular…”

Matt Medendorp
“A yearly re-read”

Jeanine Nault
“Charming, romantic, thrilling, but told in the most matter-of-fact voice. How incredible it is that someone who just happened to surf some of the most iconic waves in the world also just happens to be a writer of this caliber! This memoir did to me what great art always does to me—made me feel more alive.”



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