Bastgen | Riesling

Of everywhere I've measured, the Mosel ripens its fruit in the coldest air. Not the coldest summer — Champagne runs it close there. The coolest through ripening itself, which is the stretch that decides whether the fruit gets there at all.

Growing wine on that edge is a different job. It's why the good sites here are the steep ones angled at whatever sun there is, and why one slope can be worth twice the one beside it.

This comes off the Paulinsberg, above Kesten. Bastgen have it dry and crisp, and point it at seafood.